Double the Fun KAL: Guildentern Stripes Sections 2 and 3

Ok - who had fun with the stripes this last week? I loved it! There’s something insanely satisfying about knitting stripes in the round. Maybe it’s the color change every 2 rows? I dunno… just keeps me super motivated to keep knitting those lovely little stitches.

Continuing with Stripes 2 and 3!

This week might feel a bit like last week when you get started but I promise that there’s a new step or two involved that will keep you hopping! So we’ll start out by breaking Color D and joining Color C and start knitting the Section 2 stripes.

BUT! Before you get too far along, we have to start looking ahead to the armholes. Remember week 1 when we talked about measuring gauge? Well, today we’re going to go back to our Row Gauge and do a wee bit of math to make sure our armholes are the right height!

 Step 1: Grab page 1 of the pattern that has the schematic on it. We’re looking for the height of “C” - the armhole depth.

Step 2: Work out how many rows it will take you to knit the height of the armhole. As an example: my armhole depth (for size 42) is 7.5”. My row gauge is 36 rows / 4”. So, the math on this is as follows:

  • 7.5” divided by 4” = 1.875
  • 1.875 multiplied by 36 rows = 67.5
    • (I’m going to round that up to 68 rows since we want an even, whole number).

Step 3: Now that we know how many rows we need to reserve for the armhole, we need to subtract those rows from the total length of Stripe Section 2 and 3 (starting with 3). Here’s how I math’d it out:

  • Stripe Section 3 for my size = 52 rows (13 repeats of 4 rows = 52 rows)
  • 52 rows minus 68 rows required for the armhole depth = -16 rows
  • Since I have negative rows on Stripe 3 it means that I have to make those 16 rows up in Stripe Section 2:
    • 52 rows of Stripe Section 2 minus 16 rows leftover = 36 rows. This means that I can work 36 rows of Stripe Section 2 in the round before we need to divide for the sleeves!

TIP TIME!

If you purchased a sweater kit from Ewe Ewe Yarns that only has 1 skein of yarn for Color D, I recommend weighing and splitting the skein! When we complete our Front half of the armhole, you won’t want to break the yarn to work the Back. So, divide that single skein into two even-weight skeins so you can work the Front and Back autonomously.

 

Dividing Front and Back for Armholes

 Dividing for the sleeves: Front (left), back (unworked, right)

Dividing for the sleeves: Front (left), back (unworked, right)

Once you have completed your number of rows to work for Stripe Section 2 it’s time to divide for the armholes. To do this is really quite easy:

Step 1: Remove the beginning of round marker. Knit to next marker (do not slip any stitches).

Step 2: Remove the mid-round marker. Place the remaining stitches that will make up the Back of the armhole on a secondary needle or length of smooth waste yarn.

Step 3: Turn your work and purl the wrong side (WS) of the Front. From this point forward, the rest of the garment will be worked flat! Continue to carry your colors loosely up the edge of the work while striping!

Work your remaining rows for the Front of the garment. Through to the end of Stripe Section 3. Break Color C.
Do not break Color D and do not work the Neckline.

 

Knitting the Back / Back Armhole

When it’s time to work the Back / Back of the armhole, we will need to rejoin our working yarn and work in the same striping pattern as for the Front. When you get to Stripe Section 3, use the 2nd skein (or second half of 1 skein) of Color D. I found it far easier to work with separate skeins for the Neckline, which we’ll be working next week!

Place the held stitches from the Back onto your working needle. To rejoin the working yarn, grab the first color you’ll need to knit across the back and knit into the first stitch with the RS facing.

Knit across the row, turn the work and purl back on the WS to create your 2-row stripe. Continue to work the Back as you did the Front, ending with your Color C stripe to complete the Stripe Section 3. Break Color C. Do not break Color D and do not work the Neckline.

 Front and back complete, divided for armhole

Front and back complete, divided for armhole

 

Noble Goals!

To stay on track with our original schedule, the goal of this week is to complete Stripe Sections 2 and 3 as per above, being sure to separate the work for the sleeves. However! Next week is a light week of working the Neckline and Shoulders only (so you can try the garment on - woot!) so if you need a bit of extra time to catch up, this week and next are the weeks to do it! Have so much fun!!!

 

Check in, encourage others, have fun!

Heather and Meaghan are here to answer any questions you might have about the Guildenstern shirt! We hope you're having fun with us on this summertime knitting adventure!

We'll check in online on Instagram with the hashtags #DoubleTheFunKAL and #EweEweKAL. Follow @eweeweyarns and @notsorryknitter on Instagram now! 

Email us if you have any questions! (We're just a click away.)

 

Double the Fun KAL: Guildenstern Joining in the Round and Striping

Alrighty Team Guildenstern! How did we do with Week 1? Did you have fun swatching in the round a la speed swatching? It’s my favorite wizarding moment to share with knitters. When I learned it from the inestimable Mary Jane Mucklestone my mind was completely blown! I hope you loved adding it to your little back of techniques!

Joining to work in the round

It’s one thing to cast-on a bunch of stitches and join to work in the round, say, like when making a hat. But I always find it a bit of a mental conundrum when I’m joining to work in the round after I’ve worked two pieces flat. I mean… they’re flat. There are tails everywhere. What the heck, man?

 Ready to join Color B

Ready to join Color B

So, I’ve broken down each step and thankfully, because we’re using a new color to join in the round, it’s kind of color coded. Let’s get to it!

Step 1: Starting with the RS of the FRONT hem facing, and using your LARGER needle, join Color B and knit across the row.  

 Make sure the needle in your right hand is the Large needle!

Make sure the needle in your right hand is the Large needle!

Step 2: When you get to the end of the Front hem, place a marker. Pick up the Back hem and with the RS facing you, continue to knit across the Back hem using Color B.

 The front hem is shorter and is on the right, the back hem is on the left. 

The front hem is shorter and is on the right, the back hem is on the left. 

Step 3: When you reach the end of the Back hem, place a beginning of round (BOR) marker. I recommend that this marker be distinct from the marker you placed in Step 2. If they’re adorable hippo and dino markers, so much the better!

And that’s it! You’re officially joined to work in the round.

 Be sure to use a distinct marker for BOR (beginning of round).

Be sure to use a distinct marker for BOR (beginning of round).

Jogless Stripes

This garment was originally designed to be worked flat, and I know exactly why! When working stripes in the round, because knitting is stacked like a coil or spring, our stitches tend to “jog” at the end of each round. Here’s an example of my mum, a newbie knitter, working on a simple striped cowl. It’s pretty obvious, right? She hasn't done anything wrong - it's the nature of knitting stripes in the round. I'll have to teach her about jogless stripes... 

 Stripes doing their jog-thing!

Stripes doing their jog-thing!

A number of years ago I wrote a blog post about how simple jogless stripe modifications can be. In this garment, because we’re working in 2-row stripes, its even simpler.

Rnd 1: Knit.

Rnd 2: Slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in back, knit to 1 st before next marker, sl 1 st purlwise with yarn in back, slip marker, knit to end of round.

The first stitch that we slip on Rnd 2 will create a minor distortion by stretching that stitch vertically so that its the height of two rows. That puts enough tension on the fabric to pull up any “jog” between the beginning of Rnd 2 and the end of Rnd 2 so that the color change looks seamless.

So! Using the colors as per the pattern and continuing to work each color in 2-row stripes, work as per Rnd 1 and Rnd 2 above to continue the jogless stripe effect all the way up the sides of the project.

 Look, Ma! No jogs! 

Look, Ma! No jogs! 

You might have noticed we work a second slipped stitch on the round? Yep. We’re going to do this for 2 reasons:

  1. The slipped stitches stacked on top of each other at the beginning of the round create a minor shortening of that column of stitches. We want to mimic that shortening on the other side of the garment so one side of the shirt isn’t longer than the other.
  2. Visually, that column of slipped stitches also creates a faux-seam. Since I like symmetry in my garments it’s a great little detail to add the faux-seam to both sides of the shirt.

Carrying Colors Up!

The other beauty of working this garment in the round rather than flat, is our ability to carry our two colors of yarn up the inside of the project. Of course, you can always carry colors up the edge of a flat piece of knit fabric, too, but I happen to think it’s just easier and faster when worked in the round.

To do this, at each color change, simply bring the new color loosely up the inside and behind the new color. Behind? Maybe “to the right” makes more sense? Essentially you want to make sure you’re always twisting the yarn the same way. And when you knit the first stitch of the next round it “traps” the old color and locks it in place for the next color change.

TIP! Be sure you carry the colors loosely enough that the fabric will still lay flat and doesn’t pucker or curl.

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Noble Goals!

This week your goal will be to join your work in the round and complete the Stripe Section 1. Next week we’re going to get a bit fancy and talk about sleeve depth and working in the round AND flat. Have a great week of knitting!

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Check in, encourage others, have fun!

Heather and Meaghan are here to answer any questions you might have about these projects and how a knit-along works. We hope you'll join us on this summertime knitting adventure!

We'll check in online on Instagram with the hashtags #DoubleTheFunKAL and #EweEweKALFollow @eweeweyarns and @notsorryknitter on Instagram now! 

Email us if you have any questions! (We're just a click away.)


Double the Fun KAL: The Shift is moving along

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Hello from Ewe Ewe land! How is your cowl coming? I am in love with mine. I don't know what it is about this Teal and Pistachio combo that has me swooning but I can't believe I haven't done it before!

This was a fun section but not too different from Day 1. We're going line by line increasing each RS row. We started in the back at the seam edge that will eventually be at the back of the neck. The beautiful edge at the top is the neckline and I just rounded the corner and started working the bottom edge that will mimic the neckline. I can't wait to see where we go from here!

More projects!

I love to see your projects as they're growing. Instagram is an easy way to post them but if you don't use it then go ahead and send me an email at heather@eweewe.com!


Check in, encourage others, have fun!

Heather and Meaghan are here to answer any questions you might have about these projects and how a knit-along works. We hope you'll join us on this summertime knitting adventure!

We'll check in online on Instagram with the hashtags #DoubleTheFunKAL and #EweEweKALFollow @eweeweyarns and @notsorryknitter on Instagram now! 

Email us if you have any questions! (We're just a click away.)